Vigoleno is an enchanting fortified village and castle, perched on a hill in the municipality of Piacenza, Italy, with a history that dates back to the middle ages.
In a Fog
The meandering road through the hills and valleys around Piacenza is probably a spectacular drive, at any other time. But for us, not so much. The fog was that thick and the light that poor, it was actually difficult to know when we had arrived.
The hotel chef, who was wandering the piazza when we did finally arrive, seemed kind of surprised to see us, uttering something like - "you found us - in this?". Hmmf.
The Dinner Saga
Initially the hotel manager, who looked a lot like Stanley Tucci, came out to tell us dinner was at 8:00. Really?
Not long after, we're killing time in the piazza taking photos when Stanley came out to tell us (in his words) that "the chef he goes - your mother is sick". Now what? Should I call my mother, or look for another place to eat?
I should point out that it kinda seemed like we were the only tourists in the village. So, now we're wondering, if there actually was somewhere else to eat, will it be open? Well, as it turns out there was. We were surprised to find an open trattoria of sorts, and the family running it seemed just as surprised to be found.
And then they took their revenge...
Ideally, as a tourist, you just want to blend in - like a local. So, when you're told to drink your wine out of a soup bowl, you go sure, why not. Let's immerse ourselves in the culture.
But then, on reflection, you start to doubt yourself. Were they having a laugh? Is there a hidden camera somewhere?
Don't get me started on the wine...
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The Morning After
Then there was breakfast... of a sort. Stanley, and his partner were very gracious and welcoming hosts. We were the only guests, so they weren't busy.
The offering itself was... disappointing. There wasn't much of it, and unlike the rest of Italy, just getting a decent cup of coffee proved difficult.
But Stanley seduced us once more with his promise of fresh baked cake, that he repeatedly informed us, was "in tha offen". And so it was.
After breakfast, we took some time to explore the castle with the benefit of daylight.
Much like when we arrived, the conditions weren't great for sightseeing, but wandering through the narrow cobblestoned laneways, we still managed to get a sense of Viegoleno's charm, and of the valleys that surround it.
If nothing else, this was definitely a night to remember. Thank you Stanley.
Extras
The castle cat
Our room at Castello di Vigoleno
The restaurant at Castello di Vigoleno (where we didn't eat)
Our nemesis, the infamous trattoria
